Western Oz leaving late in the touring season
23 September 2015 - 12 January 2016

Bunbury to Sydney

4 - 6 Dec - Bunbury - Cape Leeuin

Bunbury looks like a really nice place. It was packed when we arrived as the world windsurfing championship was underway. We went to the isolated Pelican Point north of the harbour & walked the windswept beach. We watched some tourists being dropped in the water in the harbour to watch a party of dolphins go past. We, on the rocks, were actually closer to the dolphins and I much preferred our place safe from the man-eating great white sharks of this area.

The coast round Yallingup is very impressive. It is of course famous for it's massive & stand-out surf but there was not much swell during our stay - even at the famous Margaret River break. That world surfing event is no longer held because of the danger of shark attack.

The Margaret River region is infamous amongst grey nomads. Caravans, motor homes & camper vans are not welcome. The first 2 are seen to 'clog up' towns & parking while the latter leave litter when they free camp. Anyone caught free camping receives a large on-the-spot fine ($250?). We decided to use a van park of sorts - a lovely rural property with lots of shade. Robbie loves her wine, especially reds. She tried a wine & food flight (wines with compementary food tasters). She was delighted with the white wines and even Steve enjoyed a couple. Admittedly they were expensive ($40/bottle).

Our next stop was a real surprise & highlight. We'd heard of a place called Hamelin Bay where sting rays had become tame & could be hand fed from the beach. We arrived, sceptical, but could see a couple of big rays near the beach. After a while a local man appeared with some fish leftovers from his fishing and asked us if we'd like to join him feeding the rays. Yes please!! Fabulous time. We held the offerings right at the waters edge and the rays, some as big as a 1.5 metre wing span, beached themselves with their mouths over our hands to gently take the food. We stroked them and they were silky smooth.

We dropped down to the most SW'ly part of Oz where the Great Southern & Indian Oceans meet - Cape Leeuin. Dramatic & isolated place. No onwards to the great karri forests of the south west.

Shark bait at Bunbury?	The famous Margaret River surf break	Windsurfing at Margaret River
View from our van at our rural overnighter	Robbie loving the 'test flight' at Leeuwin Estate	Farmers market
Hamelin Bay	Patting a ray
	Cape Leeuwin	Overnight stop in carpark

4 - 8 Dec - Pemberton - Walpole

Steve climbed to the fire lookout deck on the massive 20 storey high Gloucester Tree with some trepidation. The forests are dramatic & misty. Let's hope they stay wet enough to avoid bush fires in future. The forests around Pemberton are magnificent. The drive out to Big Brook dam is delightful and we drove on the quaintly named Snottygobble loop just so you can say you have.

Just before Walpole we decided to climb a granite peak for a view. It was worth the effort. On the way down we saw a freshly shed, long snake skin. As Steve picked it up he saw its owner a metre away - a highly dangerous dugite. Luckily the combination of the cold weather & the effort of the skin shed meant it was placid so we snuck (hastily) away without more trauma.

The walk in Beedelup NP featuring a waterfall & suspension bridge in beautiful forest is exceptional. The road now returns to the coast and then through a succession of lovely towns - Walpole, Denmark, Albany. Albany was really nice. Friendly community, lots of music & festivals, gorgeous harbour complete with boating tour. The tour guide is a gem making the tour a must-do. We also caught the Denmark festival.

		Steve climbing a big tree
Beautiful overnight stop near Big Brook dam, Pemberton area	Beedelup NP	Pemberton tramway offers a picturesque ride
		On a mountain top
Stunning coast near Point D'Entrecasteaux	Dugite with a brand new skin. We grabbed the reject	Bushfire through a swamp?
	Mandalay Beach	Walpole cruise guide - hilarious

9 - 16 Dec - Walpole - Albany

Stopped at the memorable tree top walk and the massive cave tree. Then had a brilliant overnight stop on the beach at Peaceful Bay.

Next day took us to Greens Pool near Denmark. This is not just a beautiful spot but a safe enclosed swimming place away from marauding sharks.

We loved Denmark. Some alternates (hippie dreads and stock std alternate outfits), but people friendly, and they love the place. Cafes and frequenting them to catch up is pretty normal, and there are the wineries and local brewery, with live music and occasional big name concerts. We went on a cruise in the inlet. The tour guide was outstanding - hilarious & knowledgable - worth the trip just for him.

Heading now to Albany - the 'big' smoke. We stopped overnight at Kronkup as we saw a country dance advertised for that night. Great fun. Old time waltzes with old timer waltzers. Stayed in the carpark afterwards.

There's a lot to see at Albany, beside the perfect beaches. The old whaling station is fascinating. The view from the lookout is very fine as are the historic gun exhibits.

Overnight stop at Nornalup NP o/s Walpole	Valley of the giants tree top walk	Cave tree
Our parkng spot at Peaceful Bay	Greens Pool - giant swimming pool	Denmark Arts Market
Denmark winery cafe selling tasty gateaux	Lowlands - another beauty
Site of our country dance night	Salmon Pools	Whale jawbones
View back towards Albany from the old whaling station		Difficult to overtake

17 - 19 Dec - Esperance (Cape Le Grande NP)

We drove straight through Esperance to Le Grand van park in Cape Le Grande NP. This is reputed to be one of the most beautiful parts of the most beautiful stretch of beaches in the world. The van park was full being peak season so they suggested that we wait till sunset then go park beside the road (illegally) in the NP & return at 4am the next morning to line up for sites becoming vacant. Worked a treat.

We only visited a few of the beaches in this park & they were all stupendous.

Waiting for sunset to go & hide ourselves	Befriending the locals at Lucky Bay	Lucky Bay
Have to climb that .. later	More Lucky bay
View from the cave atop Frenchman Peak	Another day, another perfect beach

20 - 26 Dec - Norseman bush fires - Eyre Peninsular

Heading north through the site of the devastating bushfires recently that killed people. Huge stretch of desolation most of the way to Norseman.

From Norseman the next town worthy of that name is Ceduna 1200km away. In between there a few roadhouses, the world's longest golf course, sinkholes through the limestone surface and not many bends in the road. I should mention as well, the stunning Nullabor cliffs.

The whale season has finished so the road into the head of the bight at Yalata was gated. We turned off at Penong - windmill city - to visit that premier surf spot - Cactus. We passed the most beautiful pink salt encrusted lake.

We arrived at Smoky Bay in time to celebrate Jesus' & Robbie's birthday (Christmas) with oysters, prawns, ham and trimmings. Missing family though..

Drove through a hundred kms of this	The interesting part of Norseman	Nullabor sinkhole
Have to climb that .. later	Great Australian Bight	Pink salt pan
	Cactus, where a surfer had been eaten whole on our last trip
Robbie's (and Christmas) feast	Treacherous coastline of Eyre Peninsular- for swimming & shipping	Lots of sea lions here

27 Dec - 2 Jan - Baird Bay - Eyre Peninsular

We've come to Baird Bay to hopefully repeat a highlight of our last trip - an ocean swim with dolphins & sea lions. Even better this time especially as the water was warm, instead of frigid. First up was seal island. We swam in waist deep water. Steve found that if he launched out of the water that not only did the yound sea lions imitate but they also became really playful. We all had a ball - until a full grown (massive) sea lion came to investigate forcing us to vacate the scene very quickly. The drop amongst a party of dolphins was not as successful as last time & they weren't interested in playing. As we were in deep water and great whites are prevalent we didn't push the issue for long.

We drove to the tip of the Eyre Peninsular passing marvellous coastal scenery & bizarre rocks called Murphy's Haystacks. We saw crazy surfers who braved not only sharks but climbing seemingly vertical high cliffs.

The highlight was Robbie's fishing. The whole trip we'd carried a $15 Bunnings kids fishing rod. At Locks Well, a famous salmon fishery, we saw scholls of the beasties from the cliff top. We felt Robbie's time had come. A few fisherman were catching big salmon but our rod was too small. One of the guys offered Robbie a lend of his long rod and she caught a beauty. Took her ages to land it. At the top of the 70 odd stairs up to the carpark. Some young guys saw me carrying this big fish, congratulated me but I told them my wife had caught it. They just gaped when they saw the tiny rod she was carrying. Unfortunately Australian Salmon is best in fish cakes. Robbie worked her magic though & it was delicious fried.

One of the main reasons we came this way was to visit Coffin Bay - home of the Pacific Oyster variety. Robbie loves oysters. We hit the town for New Years eve and had a good time dancing at the local with the locals.

Port Lincoln is a nice enough town.

Welcome to Baird Bay	Robbie distacted by one, stalked by another playful young sea lion	Showing off for Steve
Steve head to head with another	The tip of Eyre Peninsular near Port Lincoln	Crazy rocks 3 stories high. Some of many
	Crazy surfers. Access via a 15 metre cliff, then shark bait	Proud catcher of 5kg salmon
Another nameless beach	.. and another	The water is so clear
Here's why we've driven in to Coffin Bay - Pacific oysters		Enjoying new years eve night life at the local
Port Lincoln fishing fleet

3 - 12 Jan - Port Lincoln - Sydney

We feel like where on the home run as already we've seen much of what's ahead on previous trips. A few long drives are in order.

Our first highlight is the Clare Valley wine & food mecca. It's good to see green vegetation again, and to sample the local quality food & beverages.

We are now to travel through Robbie's old stomping grounds. We had a very brief stop in Adelaide to visit Robbie's auntie, Gail. Robbie lived in Adelaide early on. Then to Terowie. Robbie spent many months here with her Nana Gasmere while her mother was working in Adelaide. It's a very humble house in a very humble town existing only for the rail workers, now gone. With the coming of the common gauge rail (NSW & SA), Terowrie died.

Crossing into NSW we stop at Broken Hill. Robbie stayed here for years with her Nanna Darkin, poppa, mother & Susie.

We dropped in to see Steve's niece (Alissa) who's in Cobar with her husband. He works at the mine as OHS officer while she is their Exercise Physiologist. They share the house with 2 hyperactive boxers - dogs that is.

We timed to hit Parkes for the Elvis Presley festival. It was a hoot. Many more look-a-likes than sound-a-likes but lots of fun.

Dubbo zoo was outstanding. We stayed in the grounds of a vineyard nearby. The range of, and proximity to the animals was outstanding. Hard to pick favorites.

Our wonderful odyssey finished with lightening visits to our friend Norma at Lithgow then to cousin Graham's Clydesdale stud nearby.

She slots easily into the Clare Valley style	Clare is cutesy	Good counter lunch @ Farrell Flat
Visited Robbie's Aunt Gail in Adelaide	Wind turbine blade and info booths	Galahs playing
Nana Gasmere's in Terowie where Robbie spent much time as a child	Terowrie main street
Scarecrow farm in the boonies	Robbie's family grave site. The latest being her grandfather	The strange old town of Silverton - Mad Max
Grandparents old place. The solar panels added after it was sold	Wilcannia on the Darling has grand buildings but not a good place to stop	At Alyssa's place at Cobar
The final at the Elvis Presley festival	Steve's cousin Graham has a draught horse stud near Lithgow	Our friend Norma

Go back to Sydney to Mataranka

Go back to Katherine Gorge to Wittenoom

Go back to Karijini to Perth